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Working in North Korea: A Foreigner's Experience

This article chronicles the extraordinary experience of a British diplomat who volunteered to work in North Korea for three years. It provides an insider's perspective on life in the "Hermit Kingdom," exploring the challenges and quirks of working in a country sealed off from the rest of the world.

• The author discusses the isolated nature of North Korea, where internet access, social media, and independent news were non-existent.
• They describe the British embassy's location within the old East German embassy, cohabitating with German colleagues and facing cultural differences in work etiquette.
• The article delves into the logistical difficulties of establishing a functional embassy in North Korea, including navigating visa processes and importing building materials.
• The author highlights the limited social interactions with locals, relying on embassy-supplied North Korean staff and a handful of shops catering to foreigners.

Working & Surviving in Pyongyang

The article details the challenges of living and working in Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea, highlighting the limited options for leisure and entertainment.

• The author describes how golf became a surprising source of recreation in Pyongyang, with access to two courses: a 9-hole course at the Yanggakdo hotel and a full 18-hole course on the outskirts of the city.
• They share their experience of owning a motorbike in Pyongyang, a unique and eye-catching mode of transportation for a foreigner.
• The article mentions other leisure activities available to foreigners, such as bowling, shooting at an indoor range, and diplomatic trips to Beijing for weekend getaways.
• It discusses the experience of flying on Air Koryo, considered the worst airline in the world at the time, yet the only option for foreigners traveling to and from North Korea.

The Quirks of North Korean Culture

The article explores the strange and intriguing aspects of North Korean culture, highlighting the rituals and customs that foreigners must navigate.

• The author explains the annual kimchi harvest week, where embassy staff are released from their duties to help harvest and prepare kimchi for their families.
• They describe the ritual of presenting a basket of Kimilsungia flowers to the statue of Kim Il Sung, a custom that all embassy staff were required to participate in.
• The article recounts the British embassy's celebration of the Queen's official birthday, which was often held on a boat cruising along the Taedong River.

The Challenges of Working in North Korea

The article delves into the personal challenges of working in North Korea, emphasizing the importance of finding ways to stay focused and sane.

• The author highlights the difficulties of establishing a fully operational embassy from scratch, dealing with bureaucratic hurdles and unreliable supply lines.
• They discuss the role of social interaction and the need for humor and resilience in navigating the complexities of working in a closed society.
• The article emphasizes the unique experience of being isolated yet safe in a country like North Korea, contrasting it with the anxieties of working in other high-risk locations like Iraq and Iran.

The Purpose of the British Embassy in North Korea

The article explores the primary mission of the British embassy in North Korea, highlighting its role as a means of communication and diplomatic engagement.

• The author explains that the embassy's presence was a crucial step in establishing direct communication channels with the North Korean government, allowing for real-time dialogue and diplomatic exchanges.
• They discuss the limited scope of the embassy's work, primarily focused on diplomatic relations, with little involvement in trade or consular services due to sanctions and restrictions on British visitors.

Travel and Interaction with Locals

The article explores the author's opportunities for travel within North Korea and their interactions with locals, highlighting the limited but unique experiences.

• The author describes regular trips to Sinuiju, a city on the North Korean-Chinese border, where embassy vehicles were serviced in Dandong, China, allowing for brief sightseeing and shopping opportunities.
• They share their experience of a week-long trip across North Korea, visiting mining facilities with engineers from Derbyshire, promising a fascinating story for a future post.
• The article highlights the limited interactions with locals, primarily through embassy staff and officials, but also through opportunities to engage with locals during leisure activities like bowling.

Conclusion

The article concludes with a reflection on the unique challenges and rewards of working in North Korea, emphasizing the importance of diplomatic presence and understanding in a closed society.

• The author contrasts the experience of working in North Korea with other high-risk locations, highlighting the isolation and safety within the country.
• The article concludes with a sense of intrigue and a desire to share further insights into the complexities of working in North Korea, promising future posts with more detailed accounts of their experiences.